Ambassador of the many “Mexicos”

Interview: Jorge Vallejo - Quintonil, Mexico City

ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: In times of change - what is your appeal to colleagues when it comes to sustainability and the future of our industry?
JORGE VALLEJO: Nothing works without our teams. For me, sustainability starts with people - both professionally and privately. When someone can realize their dreams, even outside of the kitchen, a real balance is created. Yes, gastronomy is demanding. You need ambition. But you also need space to develop as a person.

How do you see the international perception of Mexican cuisine - where do you still see potential?
Mexico is very present at the moment - and we are proud of that. But many people only see a simplified version of our cuisine. Mexico is huge - you could fit the whole of Europe in it. From the desert to the jungle, from Oaxaca to Yucatán - there are many “Mexicos”. This diversity must be visible. It's about more than tacos and burritos.

How do you manage the balance between tradition and innovation?
Both belong together. Tradition used to be innovation. Cooking has always been a reflection of social development. In Mexico, markets were the center of the community. Today we live differently. Our dishes should tell a story - and at the same time be anchored in the present.

Do you have an example of historical globalization in Mexican cuisine?
Mexico used to be a bridge between Asia and Europe - via the Manila galleon and trade routes. Citrus fruits, spices, chilies - they came from everywhere and shaped our cuisine. What appears “traditional” today is often the result of centuries of mixing. And this continues.

Many new guests and expats come to Mexico - do you adapt the spiciness of your cuisine?
No, we don't adapt anything. We show our many “Mexicos”. If it's spicy, it should stay spicy. Spiciness is not a single sensation - there is sour, smoky, sweet spiciness. We are just getting to know this variety. Tex-Mex also has its place - it's a variation, not a bad one. But the world needs to discover the full culinary depth of Mexico.

Do you see a new generation of chefs showcasing this diversity around the world?
Yes, definitely. Talents like Santiago Lastra in London or Paco Méndez in Barcelona are doing a great job. They honor our roots, use techniques sensibly and run their restaurants with heart. That's the future.

What are your biggest challenges at the moment?
Sustainability remains a key issue - but also how we support the next generation. Like surgeons, chefs need practice and repetition. But they also need the chance to have a fulfilling life outside the kitchen. The key is to create new working models that combine performance and quality of life.

What are you currently working on?
Always at the base: building a strong team. Creating meaning. Enabling growth. That's where it all starts.

About Jorge Vallejo & Alejandra Flores - Quintonil, Mexico City

Chef Jorge Vallejo is shaping modern Mexican cuisine with Quintonil. The restaurant is ranked 7th in the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2024. Vallejo studied gastronomy in Mexico, worked at Pujol and Noma, among others, and founded Quintonil in 2012 with his wife Alejandra Flores. She manages service and organization, studied in Switzerland at the renowned Les Roches and previously worked for Enrique Olvera. Together they combine hospitality, depth and culinary identity at the highest level.

Note: This interview was conducted as part of the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025, at the Meet the Chefs event in Turin, Italy, in June 2025.