Heritage Meets Future

Interview with Mike Süsser

ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: Dear Mike, there are always new food trends. Is there a current trend that you are particularly excited about?
MIKE SÜSSER: You have to differentiate between hype and a real food trend. At first, everything is always hype - and only when that survives does a trend emerge. I think Asian cuisine is still very much on trend, especially Korean cuisine. And fusion is now becoming big again. I was in Bangkok in December - some cuisines there have fused Asian and Mexican influences. Super exciting!

Have you developed a dish that your guests order again and again - a real signature dish?
Yes, we have established Spanish croquetas as my signature dish for two and a half years now. They can be adapted and refined regionally - whether in Upper Austria or wherever I'm invited as a guest chef. This “shitty thing” always goes down well.

Which gastronomic concepts do you think have a future?
Clearly, individual gastronomy must now reposition itself. Many are fighting to keep their toques or stars. At the same time, system structures are conquering the market - also because there is no other way, especially due to the staffing situation. Those who have done everything themselves up to now will no longer be able to avoid it at some point. You can also work with manufactories and hand over recipes without losing face. And I firmly believe that heritage cooking will become a huge topic. Simply because it has already disappeared in many places.

You have started a new project - the Gmundnerberghaus. What's behind it?
This is my home planet! I've always run cooking schools, then more and more events came along. Now I wanted to do something gastronomic again - but as a feasibility study. The Gmundnerberghaus is in a beautiful location, it's an old Naturfreundehaus.

I love classic dishes like roast pork - but there are so many people here who do it incredibly well. I don't want to be the next person to do it “just as well”. That's why we're using a different strategy: pop-up themes and a ticketing system.

There's nothing like it within a radius of 100 kilometers. Sure, people have to get used to it first - but people also go to concerts. And that's how it is with us: different events at one location - with a variety of themes and predictability.

What advice would you give the next generation of restaurateurs?
Stay on the ball. Be diligent. Step on the gas. Don't be lulled by the idea that you can achieve anything with 20 or 30 hours a week. If you want to chill out more, go for it - but then you shouldn't be surprised if you don't achieve the same things as others. My mother told me: “Between 20 and 55, you have to step on the gas - then you'll have time for other things later.” That's true.