Maria Groß

A place that promotes regionality, sustainability and joie de vivre

Maria Groß is much more than just an excellent chef. Her journey from studying philosophy and German studies to becoming Germany's youngest Michelin-starred chef is impressive and shows her consistent passion for what she does. Today, she runs the “Bachstelze” restaurant in Erfurt together with her partner - a place that stands for regionality, sustainability and joie de vivre. In an interview with Alexandra Gorsche, Maria Groß talks about the challenges and opportunities of gastronomy, her personal preferences and how she reconciles tradition and progress.

Every guest should leave with a satisfied smile

ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: Dear Maria, you have already experienced a wide variety of concepts. What do you think is the concept of the future for gastronomy?
MARIA GROSS: I don't think there will ever be one concept for gastronomy, because there are as many people as there are different visions - and that's the beauty of it. But in the end, I think there will be two major trends in gastronomy: on the one hand, system gastronomy and, on the other, the so-called small biotopes, which actually still live and breathe craftsmanship in the most original sense. System gastronomy is justified because it covers the mass market. But for me, these small biotopes are the place where magic happens - where real craftsmanship, proximity and creativity come together.

Is there actually a dish that you could cook yourself again and again? Perhaps one that guests keep asking for?
There is actually a dish that is not that old in my house. It's a combination of a small chocolate tart with caramel and fleur de sel in combination with liver. Yes, that's right - liver! It may not be typical, but I love this combination. Incidentally, I didn't come up with chocolate because it's so innovative, but because we have Goldhelm chocolate in Erfurt - it's the best chocolate ever. Our guests are always delighted with it because it's this unusual mixture of sweet, salty and savory.

What makes the Bachstelze special for you?
The amusing thing about the Bachstelze is first and foremost the lack of dogmatism. We are first and foremost a place of encounters, joy, joie de vivre and lightness. It's about creating a little oasis in these often turbulent times, where you can concentrate on the most original thing: meeting each other. Of course, we top it all off with good food and drink. At the end, every guest should go home with a satisfied smile and a full stomach and think: “Wow, that was too much of everything, but really good - a great evening.”

When you go out to eat, where do you go?
If I have the choice, I always go somewhere small and informal. I like places with established structures where you can feel the soul of the establishment. The staff play a huge role in this - if you really meet someone eye to eye, you feel it immediately. I like it when a restaurant not only offers good food, but also an atmosphere in which you simply feel comfortable.

We live in times in which we have to deal with digitalization. To what extent does it support you?
I have a big advantage because my husband deals with a lot of digital issues. You simply can't do without digitalization these days - whether it's tax consultants, ticket systems or social media. But I don't see that as being dramatic at all. Either you close yourself off from it, or you open yourself up and choose the digital tools that make your life easier. Digitalization can be incredibly helpful, especially when it comes to making processes more efficient. It's not about digitizing everything, but about finding the right elements that strengthen the business without losing sight of humanity.

Thank you, Maria, for your time and the fascinating insights.
Thank you, Alexandra, it was fun!