Max Sampl and the Blaue Gans
“We want to strengthen transalpine cuisine even more. There are so many products that are still unknown to me.”
What happens when alpine tradition meets Italian lightness? Max Sampl, head chef at the Blaue Gans in Salzburg, combines regionality with innovation in his “Cucina Transalpina.” In this interview, discover how his childhood in the mountains, traditional preparation methods, and his journey through top kitchens have shaped his culinary art – and why sustainability is far more than just a trend for him.
Bridge between tradition and modernity
ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: What inspired you to become a chef?
MAX SAMPL: My grandmother. I come from the mountains, from Wagrain, where we’ve always collected herbs, plants, and berries. We processed them, cleaned them, pickled them, dried them, made tea – and that’s how I got to know this world of aromas. It reminds me of my childhood and inspired me to start a chef apprenticeship.
Who has inspired you most in the kitchen so far?
I had a former boss, Mr. Sepp Schellhorn, at Seehof, and he influenced me a lot. We were a very young team, and he gave us responsibility early on. Sepp’s cooking style is quite pure, focusing on the essentials, the product, and quality.
You’ve had an incredible career so far. You just mentioned Sepp Schellhorn – can you share more about your journey?
Yes, I’ve worked in several places, including Esszimmer in Salzburg. There, I learned the art of plating, refining flavors, and presenting dishes aesthetically. I also spent two seasons as head chef at Hotel Pfefferkorn in Lech. It was my first head chef position, where I learned a lot about teamwork and collaboration. We had a great atmosphere with the service team, and it really showed me how everything works better as part of a whole. That’s also where I earned my first Gault Millau award.
Speaking of Gault Millau, what do awards mean to you?
Awards are a snapshot of recognition, and of course, they’re nice to receive. Everyone likes to be appreciated. But it’s not my award – it’s the team’s. It’s the whole team effort that earns such recognition.
What does "Cucina Transalpina" mean to you?
Cucina Transalpina is rooted in the history of our establishment. The original owners mined ore and silver, trading them in Venice for food, which they brought back to Salzburg. We’ve taken it upon ourselves to use those products. We don’t need imported items like mangos; instead, we use ingredients that are regional to us, connected to Venice. For example, we source lamb from the Tauern mountains and herbs along the route, creating a culinary journey that ends in the Venetian lagoon.
You’ve mentioned terms like "a pinch of the south" and "a dash of lightness." How do these concepts appear on your plates?
We incorporate lightness into Austrian cuisine, like using preserved lemons, which we pickle ourselves and use in salads or risottos, pairing them with something like blood sausage.
You work in the oldest inn in Salzburg. How do you bridge tradition and modernity?
Tradition is very important to us. We have classics on the menu like liver or Wiener schnitzel, which are perfect as they are. There’s no need to reinvent them; it’s about sourcing the best ingredients and preparing everything fresh. We then complement these with products from Friuli, creating exciting new dishes.
Classics are supplemented with products from Friuli, resulting in exciting new dishes.
Inspiration through travel
Sustainability is a key focus at the Blaue Gans. What does sustainability mean to you?
For me, cooking and shopping regionally and seasonally is a given. Sustainability also means using the whole product, nose to tail, without waste. That’s the real art in the kitchen. It’s also about finding efficiencies, like using the right cooking methods for each ingredient. For example, we use invasive species like the blue swimming crab from Italy. Including them on our menu supports ecosystems, and we’ve turned them into dishes like polpette or ravioli.
Is there a dish you’re particularly proud of?
There are a few! We have a connection to Campari and created a Campari dessert – a Campari sorbet with Prosecco foam – which was a big hit. It’s always exciting to create new dishes and serve them to our guests.
Where do you see the Blaue Gans’ cuisine heading?
We want to further strengthen our transalpine cuisine. There are still so many products I’ve yet to discover. Recently, we produced our own olive oil, and the whole team was involved in harvesting and pressing it. It’s all about understanding the process and finding new ways to incorporate it into our dishes.
What culinary trends interest you most?
I’m fascinated by traditional preservation methods, like pickling, smoking, and curing, and I incorporate these into my kitchen. For example, during goose season, we smoked the goose breast ourselves and achieved great results.
What’s your next travel destination?
Probably Italy again.
Thank you for sharing your insights!
Classics are supplemented with products from Friuli, resulting in exciting new dishes.
