Star cuisine without filters
“Once the service starts, it’s almost like an orchestra: everyone knows exactly what to do.”
He is one of Austria’s most renowned chefs. In an interview with Genusspunkt, Silvio Nickol talks about his idea of sustainability, the creative process behind his dishes, the special dynamic in his kitchen—and reveals why he can’t work without butter.
Silvio Nickol, Executive Chef, Silvio Nickol Gourmet Restaurant at Palais Coburg, Vienna
ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: Silvio, what does sustainability mean to you personally?
SILVIO NICKOL: For me, sustainability means responsibility at every step: from careful purchasing to proper processing and storage to presentation for the guest. It all starts with the product—where I source it, how I process it, and how I ultimately serve it.
You are known for creative, often surprising dishes. How do you come up with your ideas?
The idea always starts with the product. First, we look at what is available seasonally, which producers can deliver the desired quality and in what quantity – after all, a dish usually stays on the menu for two to three months. Together with my head chef and my team, we then put the dish together in our minds. We have so many flavors stored in our memory that we usually already know how it will taste—and in the end, we “just” have to cook it.
What is the atmosphere like in your kitchen?
During the preparation time, we listen to music, talk, laugh, and have fun, but we stay focused. As soon as service starts, it's almost like an orchestra: everyone knows exactly what to do and steps in for others when needed—from appetizers to starters to petits fours. And when everything runs perfectly, the kitchen is already clean by the time the last course is served.
If you were a signature dish yourself, what would you be?
Probably liver. It can be combined in lighter or more intense ways depending on the season. Once a year, I also serve my signature dish, “The Forest,” with hazelnuts and mushrooms. It's a great combination and a dish that is particularly close to my heart.
You're not only a chef, but also a manager. What makes a good manager in your opinion?
Being able to cook is a basic requirement. But leadership is more important than ever today because good employees can choose where they want to work. You have to show them what is possible, challenge them, encourage them, and give them clear direction—not only in cooking, but also in their personal development.
Our desserts are not classically sweet, but focus on vegetables, herbs, and authentic flavors.
Nothing works without butter.
Is there anything your guests will never find on your menu?
I don't like sea urchins – except those from the Faroe Islands, but they're hard to come by. Otherwise, almost everything is on my menu.
Your desserts are considered particularly innovative. What makes them so unique?
We've been working with very little sugar for years. Our desserts aren't classically sweet, but focus on vegetables, herbs, and real flavors. For me, sugar is just a sweetener—it has no taste of its own, makes you fat, and adds nothing to the menu. Guests should feel good after the meal and not go home feeling overloaded.
Does that work in practice?
Absolutely. Many are skeptical at first, but in the end they almost always say, “We had the full menu with wine pairing and still don't feel full.” That's because we work with few carbohydrates, lots of vegetables, fish, and meat – everything is light and digestible.
And finally, what product should never be missing in your kitchen?
Butter. I can't do without it.
Our desserts are not classically sweet, but focus on vegetables, herbs, and authentic flavors.
© Lukas Kirchgasser
