Wine, change, cosmopolitanism

“Wine is emotion - bottled”

Mary Victoria Kraaz now lives in Maremma and accompanies selected Italian wineries as a wine consultant and export expert. In an interview with Genusspunkt, she explains how it all began - and why a glass of Vernatsch works wonders on hot days.

ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: Mary, how did you get into the world of wine - and what does your everyday life look like today?
MARY VICTORIA KRAAZ: The unexpected often happens! I'm originally from Samerberg in Bavaria, a region where wine is not really at home. As a teenager, I worked at the Gasthof Alpenrose in Grainbach - wine was suddenly a topic there because guests asked for suitable pairings. My enthusiasm was awakened.

After graduating from high school, I studied International Wine Management in Heilbronn as a complete career changer - followed by a Master's degree in Vienna and Geisenheim and a sommelier school. Today, every day is different: customer visits, tastings, international trade fairs in Germany, Austria, Ireland or Poland. I love being able to present authentic wines.

What do you personally love most about Italian wine?
The variety! There are always new things to discover - new grape varieties, different styles of vinification, fascinating stories. I am particularly fond of the Maremma: honest, dynamic, unagitated. This is also reflected in the wines of the region.

What is often underestimated internationally when it comes to Italian wine culture?
How fine the unknown can be. Many consumers automatically reach for classics such as Prosecco, Chianti or Bolgheri. But the lesser-known grape varieties and regions offer so much potential! Grape varieties such as Syrah or Pinot Noir also surprise me time and again - depending on the region and how they are grown, they reveal completely new facets.

Do you have any insider tips for our readers?
I can recommend two winemakers in particular: Piemaggio - wonderful Chianti wines with character. And Agricola Purovino - single-varietal, very clear wines with a focus on grape varieties.

If we were to have a glass together now - what would you pour?
A light Vernatsch from South Tyrol, well chilled. A summer red wine with freshness and elegance - perfect for warm days.

What makes a wine unforgettable for you?
The combination: taste, history, people. If you drink a wine where it is made - in conversation with the people who make it - then it stays in your memory. That's what makes it special for me.

You travel a lot. Is there a special place that you can recommend?
Yes - the Enoteca Le Volte in Roccatederighi, in the Maremma. Tatiana runs it with a lot of heart. I regularly discover new favorite wines there.

And internationally?
Uruguay surprised me! The Tannat grape variety there is powerful and goes perfectly with the local barbecue culture.

What trends are you currently observing - especially for younger target groups?
Two trends: On the one hand, there is a growing interest in non-alcoholic or reduced-alcohol alternatives, especially in Northern Europe. On the other hand, there is a conscious target group that values origin, cultivation and style. Many young people start out with white or rosé wines - as their experience grows, they develop a taste for red wines.

Your favorite combination of wine and food?
Cheese and wine - always exciting. And: surprising pairings! A fresh red wine with fish? Or Riesling with goose? It often works better than you think.

What drives you? And what tips do you have for beginners?
Wine is emotion - bottled. My motivation is to convey exactly that. My tip: be curious, ask questions, taste a lot. There is no “right” taste - only the one you really like.