Culinary art meets species conservation
“Let's listen to the ocean together before it falls silent.”
Mauro Colagreco, Vice President of Chefs, Relais & Châteaux
When culinary excellence becomes an ecological statement—and top chefs take responsibility: Sustainability doesn’t end with packaging—it begins with product selection. This is impressively demonstrated by the Relais & Châteaux association, which, with over 580 member establishments, is considered the world’s largest gourmet community. Together with the NGO Ethic Ocean, it has launched an initiative that could not be more consistent: its chefs are committed to removing endangered fish and seafood species from their menus until stocks have recovered.
Initiative shows results
With these words, Mauro Colagreco, three-star chef and pioneer of ethical cuisine, calls on his colleagues worldwide to take action. Because what ends up on our plates affects not only our enjoyment, but entire ecosystems. Whether Atlantic wild salmon, European eel, or crab: many popular species are on the Red List. And this is exactly where the campaign comes in.
The initiative is having an impact: 84% of members have already stopped serving eel, many of them permanently. Other species such as bluefin tuna were banned back in 2009, with measurable success: thanks to such measures, stocks in the Northeast Atlantic are no longer considered overfished (ICCAT 2022).
With this stance, Relais & Châteaux is positioning itself not only as a network for first-class hotels and cuisine, but also as a voice for change in the restaurant industry. A voice that should be heard – before the ocean falls silent.
Relais & Châteaux & marine biodiversity
- Active in over 60 countries on 6 continents
- No longer serving 18 endangered fish species, including eel, wild salmon, and mackerel
- 84% of members no longer serve eel
- Positive impact on stocks through shift in demand
- Collaboration with Ethic Ocean since 2009
Impetus for the industry:
- Menu design is power – those who refrain from using certain ingredients change the supply chain
- Sensitizing guests without lecturing them: through attitude rather than morality
- Cooperation with NGOs creates credibility and impact
From Genusspunkt 3/2025
Photo provided
