Pantry revolution in fine dining
“The search for the best ingredients is essential for me.”
With micro-seasonality, 2,000 preserving jars and a signature dish made from Norway lobster, Alexandru Simon is bringing a breath of fresh air to Vienna’s top gastronomy. In the “Glasswing” at The Amauris Vienna, preservation becomes a creative art.
Micro-seasonality at the highest level
In the heart of Vienna, directly opposite the State Opera, the boutique hotel The Amauris Vienna combines tradition with innovation - also in culinary terms. Executive Chef Alexandru Simon and his team pursue an unusual concept here: the pantry as the heart of the kitchen. What used to be a wine cellar is now a treasure trove of matured ingredients, oils, vinaigrettes, fermented vegetables and even matured cocktails.
The philosophy behind it: Micro-seasonality at the highest level. “Only ingredients that have reached their absolute peak find their way onto our plates,” says Simon - and he means that literally. The chef relies on natural preservation techniques such as fermentation, pickling, drying and dry aging to get the best out of every ingredient.
How does he combine innovation, regionality, team spirit and sustainable top cuisine? He reveals in a personal interview.
Tension between creativity and profitability
ALEXANDRA GORSCHE: You rely on the pantry concept in the Glasswing - could you briefly explain this to us?
ALEXANDRU SIMON: The pantry plays an important role in our restaurant, as it allows us to store and refine high-quality ingredients over a long period of time. This creates great creative freedom and consistency for our cuisine.
How do you deal with the tension between creativity and economic viability - especially in a fine dining context?
It is currently a challenge to reconcile the two. It's no longer a secret that many restaurateurs run a bistro or brasserie alongside a fine dining restaurant in order to ensure profitability.
You have worked in renowned hotels and restaurants. What lessons have you learned at Glasswing?
I've taken something from everywhere. However, my last station in Vienna was the most formative for me, because I had the feeling that I had arrived and could realize my own style in the kitchen.
What role do regional producers play in your cuisine?
The search for the best ingredients is essential for me. I maintain close relationships with local suppliers and farmers to get the freshest and best products. Direct exchange helps both sides to develop a deeper understanding.
Which preservation techniques have proved particularly successful for you?
We store many products for different lengths of time. Fish such as turbot or sea bass mature for 5 to 7 days. Duck and quail 10 to 14 days - depending on size. Our beef ribs hang in the dry ager for 6 to 8 weeks. We even dry-age some vegetables for years. Our pantry currently contains around 2,000 preserving jars - and the trend is rising.
My handwriting combines maritime influences with Viennese traditions.
Guest experience through transparency
How do you decide whether a product makes it into the kitchen?
As a rule, a visual or olfactory check by me or my team is enough. When developing menus, we sometimes compare the same ingredients from different sources very closely.
You emphasize the importance of a strong team. How do you promote talent and innovation?
Through open communication, daily feedback and involving everyone in creative processes.
What makes a good manager for you?
Keeping calm in heated moments and supporting the team at the right time.
How do you implement sustainable concepts at Glasswing?
We avoid endangered fish species, reduce plastic by not using vacuum packaging, use preserving jars and have a clear zero-waste policy in the kitchen.
How do you reconcile innovation and tradition in the historic Amauris?
My signature style combines maritime influences with Viennese traditions. I work a lot with saltwater fish, mussels and shellfish, but also with regional classics and French techniques.
How important is the guest experience to you - and how do you implement it?
Instead of pure storytelling, we focus on transparency. Our open kitchen and visible pantry invite guests to experience the journey of the products live.
What makes a perfect culinary experience for you?
A well-rounded menu with honest, high-quality products, an excellent wine pairing and attentive service.
Can you tell us your signature dish?
“Norway lobster - cauliflower - vadouvan hollandaise - Alpine caviar”. The special feature is the play with temperatures: the hollandaise is warm, the other components are cold. The interplay of delicate texture, seasoning and temperature contrast makes the dish special.
The Amauris Vienna & Restaurant Glasswing
Address: Kärntner Ring 8, 1010 Vienna
Category: 5-star luxury hotel, member of Relais & Châteaux
Special feature: Historic city palace with modern design, opposite the Vienna State Opera
Restaurant Glasswing: Fine dining at the highest level with open kitchen, pantry concept and focus on seasonal as well as home-refined ingredients
Head chef: Alexandru Simon - influenced by international stations and Viennese roots
Signature dish: Norway lobster with Vadouvan hollandaise, cauliflower and Alpine caviar
My handwriting combines maritime influences with Viennese traditions.
Photo provided
