Rooted in responsibility
Organic is not a label – it’s an attitude. In Falkenstein, Lower Austria, the Pesau winery practices organic farming as a generational contract: for the soil, for the landscape, for the wine. A conversation with Andreas and Georg Pesau about living origin, sustainable craftsmanship and the courage not to bow to every trend.
Uncompromising approach to the topic of origin
The Pesau winery is nestled in a protected valley basin, where Falkenstein is embraced by limestone formations. Brothers Andreas and Georg Pesau run the historic family business with a palpable respect for nature - and a clear attitude: this is not about organic as an image, but about a deeply rooted understanding of agriculture, responsibility and winegrowing culture.
One of them - Andreas - is a winemaker, oenologist and cellar master. The other - Georg - is a winemaker, sommelier and contact manager in the best sense of the word: a charming link between vine, glass and guest. Together they stand for an uncompromising approach to the topic of origin. And for wines that are not subject to any trends - but follow a history that goes back 400 years.
“Organic is not a fashion, it's consistency.”
What does organic farming mean to you - in viticulture, but also in the philosophy of your company?
For us, organic farming is not a marketing idea, but the basis of our work. It's not just about avoiding chemicals, but about an attitude: working consciously, observing, understanding what is needed - and what is not. Human intervention should be measured.
For us, organic also means taking responsibility - for the soil, for the landscape and for the future. Our farm has existed for over 300 years and has been passed down from generation to generation. It is our responsibility - just like that of our ancestors - to think of our descendants.
The decision to go organic was the result of a process of learning and observation. It was the logical consequence of our own actions. Not a fad, not a marketing gimmick.
“Origin is not just geography - it's also personality.”
To what extent is origin more than just a geographical indication for you - and how do you tell your customers about it?
Falkenstein is blessed. The landscape, the nature, the unique limestone soils, formed around 17 million years ago, offer perfect conditions for viticulture. But origin is more than just a beautiful backdrop or a dot on the map.
It is what makes a wine unmistakable. And - not to forget - it is also us. Origin is inextricably linked to the people who work the land, understand it and shape it over the years.
Our wines reflect the soil, vintage and variety - but also our signature as winegrowers. Or as we say: terroir beats variety.
“Good greening is living responsibility.”
What makes good greening and soil seeding for you - and how does this affect the quality in the glass?
This is very challenging for us because we are located in an absolutely arid region. Erosion protection is particularly important - especially on our steep slopes.
Well thought-out greening provides nutrients, builds up humus and ensures stable soil life. It provides a habitat for beneficial insects and promotes a healthy microclimate. This has a direct effect on quality - living soils give the wine depth, structure and character.
“Organic is one part - sustainability is the goal.”
What misconceptions still exist about organic in viticulture - and how do you deal with them?
A widespread misconception is that organic equals sustainability. Organic is an important component - but only one. For us, sustainability also means economic stability, social responsibility and long-term thinking.
A winery can only be truly sustainable if all areas are in balance. This is often overlooked in the public debate - and more awareness is needed here, including within the industry.
“Wine is not a soft drink.”
What do you think about the trend towards non-alcoholic wines? Would that be conceivable for you in the future?
The trend is there - and we are watching it with interest. However, non-alcoholic wine is not an option for us at the moment. Technical production is so intrusive that you can no longer speak of wine in the classic sense.
We see wine as a cultural asset and an artisanal product. Non-alcoholic wine simply does not fit into this. What we do find exciting, however, are high-quality grape-based drinks or natural variants such as Versu - closer to the origin, more honest in character.
“Organic has arrived - but it hasn't become easier.”
What developments in the organic wine scene are you pleased to see - and where do you see challenges?
It's great to see that organic viticulture is no longer a niche product. The quality is convincing and the appreciation in the trade and gastronomy is increasing.
At the same time, the bureaucracy has grown enormously. Two to three inspections per year, documentation requirements, regulations - it's time-consuming, but important. Because trust can only be built through control. And that is precisely the foundation for honest products.
Pesau Winery - Origin that shows attitude
Location: Falkenstein, Lower Austria
Farming: Organic, family-run
Varietal range:
- White: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling, Muskat Ottonel
- Red: Zweigelt, Roesler
Terroir:
- Geologically unique limestone soils, formed around 17 million years ago
- Cool climate area with strong character and minerality
Team:
- Andreas Pesau: Winemaker, oenologist, cellar master
- Georg Pesau: Winemaker, sommelier, contact
History:
- Winegrowing for over 400 years
- Vineyards partly mentioned in documents since the 14th century
Philosophy:
- Terroir beats variety
- Observe rather than master
- Organic as a consistent development, not as an image
Our conclusion: Character that lasts
Andreas and Georg Pesau represent a new, down-to-earth generation of winegrowers. Their wines tell stories that are deeply rooted in the limestone - but grow with a clear view to the future. Here, wine is not invented, but discovered, accompanied and understood. Authentic. Personal. Convincing.
© Pesau Winery
