Blaufränkisch at its peak

Why Kerschbaum’s “X” 2015 Is a Rare Statement Against Opening Wine Too Early
© Kerschbaum Winery
© Kerschbaum Winery
Alexandra Gorsche © Conny Leitgeb Photography
11. May 2026 | 
Alexandra Gorsche
11. May 2026
|
Alexandra Gorsche

Most great wines are opened too early. Michael Kerschbaum turns this principle on its head and, with the Blaufränkisch “X” 2015, brings a wine to market that is available precisely when it has reached its full potential. A rare statement in favor of patience, terroir, and the true greatness of Blaufränkisch.

With the Blaufränkisch “X” 2015, the Kerschbaum Winery is making a deliberate statement against the fast-paced nature of the wine world. Ten years of aging, uncompromising selection, and a clear vision: to make a Blaufränkisch available precisely when it has reached its full potential.

When Patience Becomes a Style

It is an observation shared by many sommeliers, but one that is rarely taken to its logical conclusion: great wines are often opened too soon. For Michael Kerschbaum, this was precisely the starting point for a project that is now regarded as one of the most exciting developments in the Austrian red wine sector. As early as 2015, the decision was made to release a wine not according to market logic, but according to its maturity.

The result is the Blaufränkisch “X”: a wine that does not aim for immediate impact, but rather for depth, structure, and development. “It is no compromise. Rather, it is the result of ten years of patience and precision.” This approach is no coincidence, but part of a long-standing philosophy. The foundation was laid by Paul Kerschbaum, who developed the winery in Horitschon in the late 1980s into one of the defining estates of Central Burgenland. Blaufränkisch was never just a grape variety, but an identity.

Dürrau Vineyard: Terroir as the Backbone

The 2015 Blaufränkisch “X” comes from the renowned Dürrau vineyard – a terroir known for its power, spice, and aging potential. Hand-harvesting, precise selection, and a classic yet deliberately unhurried aging process form the foundation: 18 months in small oak barrels, followed by six months in large wooden barrels, and then eight years of bottle aging.

Particularly exciting for connoisseurs: The long bottle aging not only ensures harmonized tannins but also yields significantly more complex aromas, moving away from primary fruit toward depth, spice, and structure.

In the glass, the wine now reveals:

  • fine-grained, integrated tannins
  • precise acidity
  • cool spice and dark fruit
  • remarkable length

Drinkability as a Concept, Not a Coincidence

What makes this wine special is not only its quality, but the timing of its release. While many wines reach the market long before they have reached their full potential, Kerschbaum deliberately reverses this principle: The consumer receives a wine that has already reached its optimal drinking window.

For the restaurant industry, this means:

  • immediate drinkability
  • maximum expressiveness without the need for aging
  • a clearly communicable promise of quality

The recommendation to decant the wine for about two hours before enjoying it underscores the claim: This Blaufränkisch is no casual wine; it demands attention.

Culinary Precision: A Wine for Hearty Dishes

The wine’s signature comes through particularly clearly in its pairing potential. The 2015 Blaufränkisch “X” calls for dishes with substance: braised or grilled beef, game, or aged hard cheese. The combination of structure, acidity, and spice allows it not only to accompany complex dishes but also to actively carry them.

The “X” as a symbol of a new attitude

Visually minimalist yet powerful: Each of the 3,000 bottles bears a hand-painted golden “X”. It stands for ten years of aging, the factor of time as a mark of quality, and at the same time for the extraordinary. Combined with the black packaging, it creates a deliberate statement: wine as an object of tranquility, not of spectacle.

Limited Edition with a Vision

With only 3,000 bottles produced, the 2015 Blaufränkisch “X” remains a rare find. Yet it also marks the beginning of a new concept: additional vintages are already aging in the cellar and will follow the same principle – they will be released only when they are ready. For collectors, sommeliers, and discerning connoisseurs, this creates a new category: matured Blaufränkisch editions with a clearly defined stage of maturity.

Our conclusion: Blaufränkisch in its mature form

In an era where speed is often prioritized over maturity, the Kerschbaum Winery sets a deliberate counterpoint. Or to put it another way: This wine does not show what Blaufränkisch can do, but what it becomes when given the time.

Availability & Facts

Wine: Blaufränkisch “X” 2015
Origin: Horitschon, Central Burgenland, Austria
Grape variety: Blaufränkisch
Alcohol: 13.5% vol.
Aging: small & large oak barrels + 8 years of bottle aging
Limited edition: 3,000 bottles
Price: €119

Available:

  • directly from the winery
  • at specialty retailers in Austria
  • at select top restaurants in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland

www.kerschbaum.at

A la table, s'il vous plaît! A la table, s'il vous plaît! A la table, s'il vous plaît! A la table, s'il vous plaît!
Copyright for the featured images used:
© Kerschbaum Winery

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quick & dirty
Blaufränkisch “X” © Kerschbaum Winery
Blaufränkisch at its peak

Most great wines are opened too early. Michael Kerschbaum turns this principle on its head and, with the Blaufränkisch “X” 2015, brings a wine to market that is available precisely when it has reached its full potential. A rare statement in favor of patience, terroir, and the true greatness of Blaufränkisch.

With the Blaufränkisch “X” 2015, the Kerschbaum Winery is making a deliberate statement against the fast-paced nature of the wine world. Ten years of aging, uncompromising selection, and a clear vision: to make a Blaufränkisch available precisely when it has reached its full potential.